Mice and rats damage insulation, chew wiring (a documented cause of electrical fires), and contaminate food and stored goods. Worse, a single breeding pair of house mice can produce 60+ offspring in a year under favorable conditions. Castle Exterminators runs a true exclusion-based rodent program — we trap and remove what's already inside, then physically seal the entry points so rodents can't come back. Bait stations alone are a Band-Aid, not a solution.
The two rodents you'll actually encounter in Durham homes are Mus musculus (the house mouse — small, gray, 2–4 inches body length, capable of squeezing through a hole the diameter of a #2 pencil) and Rattus norvegicus (the Norway rat — larger, brown, 7–10 inches, typically ground-dwelling, entering through gaps as small as a quarter).
Roof rats (Rattus rattus) are rare here but do show up occasionally in older homes with tree access to the roofline. Every one of these species is a prolific breeder, a documented disease vector (hantavirus, salmonellosis, leptospirosis), and a genuine structural hazard — the National Fire Protection Association attributes roughly 20% of house fires of unknown origin to rodent-chewed wiring.
NC State Extension and the CDC both emphasize the same principle: exclusion is the only permanent solution. Trapping without sealing means new rodents move in from outside as soon as the resident population is gone; sealing without trapping traps the current population inside your walls where they die and stink for weeks.
You need both, in the right order, done by someone who has crawled the crawl space and looked at the roofline. Every rodent job we quote is personalized after that walk-through — home size, age, foundation type, tree cover, and how established the infestation is all change the plan. For our licensing, service area, and everything else we cover, visit the Castle Exterminators home page.
Our rodent program, step by step
Step 1 — Free property inspection. A licensed technician walks the interior (attic if accessible, basement, crawl space, garage, kitchen, laundry room, any room with activity) and the entire exterior perimeter. We look for four things: entry points (gaps of 1/4 inch or larger — for mice, gaps as small as a dime are enough), active runways (greasy rub marks along baseboards and joists), nesting sites (shredded paper, insulation, fabric), and food/water sources drawing them in. Every entry point gets photographed and documented on a property map.
Step 2 — Personalized written quote. Based on the size of the property, number of entry points, whether we're dealing with mice or rats, and how established the population is, you get a written scope in three components: trapping and removal, exclusion sealing, and (if you want it) ongoing monitoring. Personalized to your home; no flat rates.
Step 3 — Trapping and removal. Snap traps and tamper-resistant bait stations are placed strategically — in attics, crawl spaces, along exterior perimeter, in wall voids where accessible — never in living areas where kids or pets could contact them. Trap placement follows runway mapping from the inspection: rodents follow the same routes every night, and traps placed on those routes are dramatically more effective than random placement. We check and reset traps on a schedule (typically 2–4 visits over 2–3 weeks) until we're seeing zero activity.
Step 4 — Exclusion sealing. This is the step that actually solves the problem permanently. Every entry point we mapped gets sealed with materials rodents cannot chew through: galvanized steel mesh (hardware cloth), copper mesh wool, sheet metal, mortar for masonry gaps, and weather-resistant sealant. We seal from the roofline down — soffit gaps, attic vents, dryer vents, plumbing and cable penetrations, foundation gaps, crawl-space vents, garage door thresholds, and any gap along the sill plate. Steel wool alone rusts and fails; foam alone gets chewed through in a week. Materials matter.
Step 5 — Optional ongoing monitoring. For homes near woods, fields, water, or in older neighborhoods with high ambient rodent pressure, we recommend adding exterior bait stations on a monthly or quarterly monitoring schedule. Stations catch new pressure from surrounding properties before it becomes an interior problem.
Step 6 — Cleanup and warranty. After exclusion, we can coordinate crawl-space or attic cleanup and insulation replacement (droppings, urine-contaminated insulation, nesting material) — usually as a separate scope, quoted after the main exclusion is complete. All exclusion work is warrantied against re-entry through sealed points.
Why bait stations alone are not a solution
Almost every "we've been paying a pest company but the mice keep coming back" call we get involves a competitor who put down bait stations and stopped there. Here's the problem: bait stations kill the rodents that eat the bait. They do absolutely nothing to close the front door those rodents used to get in. So the population you see drops for a few weeks, new rodents move in from outside through the same open entry points, and you're back where you started — except now there are also dead rodents inside your walls.
Bait stations belong in a rodent program as one component of ongoing monitoring, not as the whole strategy. If a pest company quoted you a rodent job and didn't mention exclusion sealing, they're selling you a subscription, not a solution.
What to expect during the project
Timeline: Most Durham rodent jobs run 2–3 weeks from first visit to zero-activity confirmation. Initial trap-set visit is followed by 2–4 trap-check visits over the following weeks. Exclusion sealing typically happens after trap catches drop off (sealing while rodents are still inside traps them in the walls).
Access: We need attic access if accessible, crawl-space or basement access, and interior access to rooms where you've seen activity or heard noise. Most exclusion work is exterior; we'll only need brief interior access to check trap sites.
Noise: For a few nights after we set snap traps, you may hear a snap. That's the treatment working.
Kids and pets: Snap traps are placed in attics, crawls, and behind appliances — locations kids and pets can't reach. Bait stations are tamper-resistant and placed exterior or in enclosed spaces. Products used are EPA-registered per label.
Odor: If any rodents die inside walls before we can remove them, there may be a brief odor as decomposition completes (typically 1–2 weeks). This is why we always trap and remove before sealing — sealing first traps live rodents inside and dramatically increases wall-void mortality.
Seasonal timing — when rodents come inside
Fall and early winter are the peak rodent-intrusion months in Durham. As nighttime temperatures drop below the mid-50s in late October, mice and rats actively seek warm structures, and the same house that had no rodents in August can have a population by Thanksgiving. That's why we recommend the exclusion inspection in late summer or early fall — before the population moves in — so entry points are sealed proactively.
If you're already hearing scratching in the walls in December or January, don't wait until spring. Winter populations continue to breed inside warm structures (mice breed year-round in a heated home), and every month you wait doubles the population you eventually have to remove.
Why every rodent quote is personalized
A 1,400-square-foot slab home in a newer subdivision with two obvious entry points is a completely different job than a 3,000-square-foot older home on a wooded lot with a crawl space, an attic full of nest material, and 15+ potential entry points along the roofline, foundation, and utility penetrations. Property size, age, foundation type, tree and vegetation cover, existing damage, and how established the population is all move the number substantially.
A flat rodent-service rate would either overcharge easy jobs or under-scope hard ones. We walk the entire property, map every entry point, and put a personalized written quote on paper before we start.
Common signs you need help
- Droppings (small dark rice-shaped for mice, larger capsule-shaped for rats) in the pantry, attic, garage, or crawl space
- Gnaw marks on baseboards, food packaging, cardboard, plastic, or (dangerously) electrical wiring
- Scratching, scurrying, or thumping sounds in walls or ceilings — usually most audible at night
- Greasy rub marks along baseboards, joists, and consistent travel routes (rodents follow the same paths repeatedly)
- Nests built from shredded paper, insulation, dryer lint, or fabric in secluded areas
- Pets fixating on a wall, cabinet, or ceiling area — cats and dogs often detect rodents before humans do
- A distinctive ammonia-like urine smell in enclosed spaces (attic, under-sink, pantry)
- Chewed corners on food packaging or holes in stored goods (grass seed, birdseed, dog food, pantry staples)
How Castle Exterminators handles it
Free property inspection
Licensed technician walks interior and exterior, maps every entry point (gaps as small as a dime for mice, quarter for rats), documents runways, and identifies nesting sites. Property map + photos delivered same day.
Personalized written quote
Trapping + exclusion + optional monitoring — in writing, personalized to your property. Home size, age, foundation type, tree cover, and infestation size all factor in. No flat rates.
Trapping and removal
Snap traps and tamper-resistant bait stations placed strategically on mapped runways — never in living areas. Traps checked and reset over 2–3 weeks until zero activity is confirmed.
Exclusion sealing (the permanent fix)
Every entry point sealed with materials rodents can't chew through: galvanized steel mesh, hardware cloth, copper wool, sheet metal, and weather-resistant sealant. Sealed only AFTER trap catches drop off, to avoid trapping live rodents inside walls.
Optional ongoing monitoring
For homes near woods, fields, or water — or in older high-pressure neighborhoods — monthly or quarterly exterior bait station monitoring catches new pressure before it re-enters the home.
Frequently asked questions
Are bait stations safe around kids and pets?
Yes — the stations we use are tamper-resistant (locked, keyed, and secured to a heavy anchor), and we place them in attics, crawl spaces, or along the exterior perimeter where kids and pets can't reach or interfere with them. Products used are EPA-registered rodenticides applied per label.
How long until the rodents are gone?
Most Durham homes are fully resolved within 2–4 weeks: 2–3 weeks of active trapping to zero activity, then exclusion sealing to lock the fix in. Larger infestations or homes with heavy exterior pressure may take longer.
How much does rodent removal cost?
Price depends on property size, age, foundation type, tree cover, number of entry points, and how established the population is. A slab home with two obvious entry points is not the same job as a wooded-lot older home with 15+ potential entries. We walk the property, map everything, and put a personalized written quote on paper — free, no obligation.
Will I hear or smell dead rodents in my walls?
This is why we always trap and remove BEFORE sealing entry points. Companies that seal first often trap live rodents inside walls, and the resulting die-off does create weeks of odor. When it's done in the correct order, wall-void mortality is minimal — occasional, but the exception rather than the rule.
What about the mess in my attic or crawl space?
Rodent droppings, urine-saturated insulation, and nesting material do need to come out for full remediation — droppings continue to release allergens and can carry hantavirus and other pathogens. We can coordinate attic/crawl cleanup and insulation replacement as a separate scope, quoted after the main exclusion work is done.
Do you handle roof rats or just mice?
We handle house mice, Norway rats, and roof rats. Species ID matters — Norway rats travel low (foundation, sewer lines, ground-level gaps), roof rats travel high (roofline, attic vents, tree branches into the eaves), and each requires different trap placement and exclusion focus.
Is DIY exclusion enough — can I just seal it myself?
You can absolutely close obvious gaps yourself, and that helps. What we bring is the trained eye for the 6–15 non-obvious entry points on a typical home (dryer vent gaps, utility penetration gaps, sill-plate gaps, roofline transitions, corner-post gaps), the right materials for each location, and the crawl-space and attic access to seal the parts of the home most homeowners can't safely reach. Combined trap + seal is what makes the fix permanent.
What if I see one mouse and then it goes away — do I really need service?
One visible mouse almost always means a hidden population. Mice are nocturnal and cautious, so a daytime sighting typically indicates the population is large enough that individuals are pushed into the open. Free inspection tells you whether it's an early-stage issue you can address with basic exclusion or a larger problem that needs the full program — no obligation either way.